How to Paint Fiber Cement Siding (Such as Hardie Board)

Painting fiber cement siding, like Hardie Board, is a great way to refresh the look of your home while also protecting it from the elements. 

But where do you start? Whether you’re a DIYer or just trying to save some money on home maintenance, knowing how to properly paint this type of siding can make a big difference.

In this guide, we’ll walk you through every step, from choosing the right paint to ensuring a long-lasting finish. Let’s dive in and give your home that fresh, new look!

Why Paint Fiber Cement Siding?

When it comes to home maintenance, painting fiber cement siding, like Hardie Board, might not be at the top of your list. After all, fiber cement is known for its durability and low maintenance. 

But here’s the thing: even the toughest materials can benefit from a fresh coat of paint.

First off, let’s talk about aesthetics. One of the most immediate reasons to paint fiber cement siding is to refresh the look of your home. 

Over time, even the most well-kept siding can start to look dull or outdated. Maybe the color you chose a decade ago doesn’t quite match your current style, or perhaps the sun has caused some fading. 

Whatever the case, a new color can completely transform your home’s appearance, giving it that curb appeal boost that we all love. 

I’ve seen neighbors stop in their tracks to compliment a house with newly painted siding—it’s like the whole place comes alive with that fresh color.

But it’s not just about looks. 

Painting fiber cement siding also adds an extra layer of protection against the elements. Sure, fiber cement is tough, but it’s not invincible. 

The right paint acts as a barrier against moisture, which is crucial because water can cause all sorts of issues over time, even with a material as robust as fiber cement.

Another reason to paint is maintenance. Fiber cement siding may be low maintenance, but it’s not no maintenance. Regular painting can help prevent small problems from becoming big headaches. Think of it as a way to extend the life of your siding. 

Over the years, I’ve seen my fair share of homes where a little preventative painting could have saved the homeowners from costly repairs down the road. The peace of mind that comes with knowing your home is well-protected is worth the effort.

There’s also the issue of resale value. If you’re thinking about selling your home anytime soon, a fresh coat of paint can make a huge difference. 

Potential buyers often judge a book by its cover, and the exterior of your home is the first thing they see. It’s amazing how something as simple as a paint job can impact how buyers perceive a property.

Lastly, there’s the satisfaction of a job well done. I can’t tell you how rewarding it is to stand back and admire your work after painting a house. 

It’s not just about the new look—it’s about the effort you put in and the pride you feel knowing you’ve done something good for your home. 

Whether you’re doing it yourself or hiring a professional, there’s a certain joy that comes from seeing your house looking its best. And let’s be honest, who doesn’t like showing off a little?

So, why paint fiber cement siding? Because it’s an investment in your home’s appearance, protection, and value. It’s about keeping your home looking sharp and staying ahead of potential issues. 

And in the end, it’s about feeling good every time you pull into your driveway. Whether you’re looking to refresh your home’s look, protect it from the elements, or just enjoy the satisfaction of a job well done, painting your fiber cement siding is a smart move.

How to Choose the Right Paint for Fiber Cement Siding

When it comes to painting fiber cement siding, like Hardie Board, picking the right paint isn’t just about choosing a color that matches your vision. It’s also about making sure the paint you select will stand up to the elements, protect your siding, and last for years without peeling or fading. 

Trust me, after decades in the painting business, I’ve learned that not all paints are created equal.

First, let’s talk about paint type. If there’s one thing you need to remember, it’s this: go for 100% acrylic latex paint. This type of paint is flexible, durable, and resistant to the harsh conditions that exterior siding faces.

I’ve seen other types of paint—like oil-based/alkyd—fail miserably on fiber cement. 

They might look good at first, but over time, they tend to fade and leave a powdery film on the surface which is known as chalking.

Chalking occurs when the paint film degrades, often due to exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, moisture, and other environmental factors. 

Now, the finish. 

For fiber cement siding, a satin or eggshell finish is your best bet. These finishes strike the perfect balance between being easy to clean and looking sharp. 

I’ve worked on homes where homeowners opted for a flat finish, and while it does have a nice, classic look, it can be more prone to holding onto dirt and isn’t as durable over time. 

On the other hand, high-gloss finishes can look a bit too shiny for large exterior surfaces and tend to highlight any imperfections in the siding. 

Satin or eggshell gives you that middle ground—enough sheen to be visually appealing and practical without being overpowering.

Then there’s the brand. It’s tempting to save a few bucks by going with a cheaper option, but in my experience, you often get what you pay for. 

Brands like Sherwin-Williams, Benjamin Moore, and Behr are trusted for a reason—they consistently produce high-quality exterior paints that are built to last. 

So, while it might hurt your wallet a bit more upfront, going with a reputable brand can save you time, money, and headaches down the road.

Finally, think about primers. 

You’ll want to use a high-quality, exterior-grade primer before you start painting. Primer helps the paint adhere better and provides an even surface for the topcoat, which is crucial for getting that smooth, professional finish. 

And don’t skimp on the quality—using the same brand for both primer and paint can help ensure compatibility and better overall performance.

Materials and Tools You’ll Need

Before you dive into painting your fiber cement siding, like Hardie Board, you’ll want to make sure you have all the right materials and tools on hand. 

Trust me, having everything ready before you start will save you a ton of time and frustration. 

After years of painting, I’ve learned that being prepared is half the battle. So, let’s go over what you’ll need to get the job done right.

Paint and Primer

• 100% acrylic latex paint (satin or eggshell finish)
• Exterior-grade primer (optional, depending on the condition of the siding)

Application Tools

• High-quality synthetic bristle paintbrushes
• ¾-inch nap rollers
• Paint sprayer (optional but recommended for large areas)
• Extension pole for rollers
• Painter’s tape

Preparation and Protection

• Drop cloths (heavy-duty canvas recommended)
• Plastic sheeting
• Scrapers
• Wire brush
• Sandpaper (120-grit) and sanding block
• Caulk and caulking gun (paintable, exterior-grade)
• Ladder and/or scaffold (or boom lift for difficult-to-reach areas)

Cleaning and Safety Supplies

• Garden hose with spray nozzle or pressure washer
• Exterior cleaner (like TSP – trisodium phosphate)
• Gloves
• Goggles
• Dust mask or respirator

Miscellaneous

• Utility knife (for scoring painter’s tape)
• Paint trays
• Stir sticks

Use plastic bags to keep your roller and paintbrush in to keep them fresh between coats.

Paint and Primer

The most obvious items are your paint and primer. As we talked about earlier, you’ll need a high-quality 100% acrylic latex paint, which is ideal for exterior siding like fiber cement. 

Don’t forget to choose the right finish—satin or eggshell usually works best. Make sure to get a compatible exterior-grade primer as well. 

I recommend sticking with the same brand for both primer and paint to ensure they work well together.

Brushes and Rollers

Next up, you’ll need a selection of brushes and rollers. 

For fiber cement siding, a high-quality synthetic bristle paintbrush is recommended, especially for cutting in around edges and details. 

For larger areas, use a roller with a ¾-inch nap. This type of roller holds more paint and is better suited for the rough texture of fiber cement siding. You might want to use a shorter nap if you want a more smooth finish though.

Don’t forget an extension pole, it not only makes it easier to work but it will help you reach those areas that can be hard to reach.

Paint Sprayer (Optional but Recommended)

If you’re tackling a large area or just want a super smooth finish, consider renting or investing in an airless paint sprayer. 

A paint sprayer will save you a lot of time and help achieve that professional look.  

Drop Cloths and Plastic Sheeting

You’ll also need plenty of drop cloths to protect the ground and any nearby surfaces from paint splatters. For areas like windows, doors, and plants, plastic sheeting is a good option. Secure it with painter’s tape to make sure it doesn’t shift around while you’re working. Speaking of painter’s tape…

Painter’s Tape

Painter’s tape is a must for clean, crisp lines. Use it to mask off areas where the siding meets trim, windows, or any other surfaces you don’t want to paint. 

Make sure to press down firmly along the edges to prevent paint from seeping underneath. 

Scrapers and Wire Brushes

If your siding has any peeling or flaking paint, you’ll need a scraper and a wire brush to remove it before you start painting. 

A stiff-blade scraper works well for larger, flat areas, while a wire brush can get into the grooves and textured spots. 

It’s crucial to remove as much loose paint as possible to ensure the new paint adheres properly.

Sandpaper and Sanding Block

After scraping, you might have some rough edges or areas that need smoothing out. 

This is where sandpaper and a sanding block come in handy. For fiber cement siding, I usually go with 120-grit sandpaper—it’s rough enough to smooth out imperfections but not so harsh that it leaves a texture. Sand any rough spots until the surface feels even.

You can also use an orbital sander for this if there is a lot to sand.

Cleaning Supplies

Before you start painting, you’ll need to clean the siding thoroughly. A garden hose with a spray nozzle can work for rinsing off loose dirt, but for a proper clean, a pressure washer is recommended. 

You’ll also need a good exterior cleaner—TSP (trisodium phosphate) is a popular choice for cutting through grime and mildew. 

Caulk and Caulking Gun

To seal any gaps or cracks in the siding, you’ll need exterior-grade caulk and a caulking gun. 

Look for a paintable, waterproof caulk designed for exterior use, don’t use silicone. Applying caulk before you paint helps prevent water from seeping behind the siding and causing damage. 

It also gives your paint job a more polished, finished look. I’ve found that a good quality caulking gun makes a big difference—cheap ones can be hard to control and lead to messy results.

Ladder or Scaffold

Depending on the height of your home, you’ll need a sturdy ladder or scaffold to reach the upper areas of your siding. 

Safety is key here—make sure the ladder is stable and always use it on level ground. If you’re working on a two-story home, a scaffold might be a better option, especially if you’re using a paint sprayer. 

It provides a stable platform to move around on and reduces the risk of falls.

Use a boom lift if there are any difficult areas that you can’t reach with a ladder or scaffolding. You can rent these and sometimes it’s a must.

Safety Gear

Finally, don’t forget your safety gear. At a minimum, you’ll need gloves, goggles, and a dust mask, especially when you’re sanding or using a sprayer. 

Having all these materials and tools ready to go will make your painting project smoother and more efficient. When you’re prepared, you can focus on the task at hand without unnecessary interruptions. 

How to Prepare Your Fiber Cement Siding for Painting

Before you start painting there are a few steps of prepping you need to get done.

Cleaning

The first and most important step in your preparation is cleaning the siding. 

Fiber cement siding will accumulate dirt, grime, and mildew over time, especially on the north side or if you live in a damp or shady area. 

Painting over dirty siding is a big no-no. The paint won’t adhere properly, and you’ll likely end up with peeling or flaking paint in no time. 

I’ve seen it happen before, and it’s not a pretty sight.

To clean the siding, start with a garden hose or, better yet, a pressure washer. A pressure washer is more effective at removing stubborn dirt. 

If you don’t have access to a pressure washer, a garden hose with a high-pressure nozzle can work, though it may require a bit more elbow grease. 

Allow the siding to dry completely before moving on to the next steps. Painting on wet siding is a sure way to end up with a disaster on your hands.

Masking and Covering

After your siding is clean and dry, it’s time to protect everything that you don’t want painted. This is where masking and covering come in. 

This step might seem tedious, but it’s worth every minute. I can’t count the number of times I’ve had to spend extra time cleaning up paint splatters because the masking wasn’t done properly. A little patience here can save you a ton of time later.

Start by masking off windows, doors, trim, and any other architectural features that shouldn’t get painted. 

Painter’s tape is your best friend here. Apply it carefully along the edges of the surfaces you’re protecting, making sure it’s pressed down firmly to prevent any paint from seeping underneath.

I like to use masking paper for larger areas, which not only covers the edges but also protects the surrounding surfaces which is useful when paint spraying.

For larger areas like patios, walkways, or plants near the house, use drop cloths or plastic sheeting. I prefer heavy-duty canvas drop cloths for ground cover because they’re less likely to blow around in the wind and they absorb any paint drips. 

Plastic sheeting is great for covering windows, doors, and bushes. Just be sure to secure everything with painter’s tape so it doesn’t shift while you’re working.

Don’t forget to cover outdoor fixtures, like lights and outlets. A little bit of masking tape and masking paper works wonders for these smaller details. It might seem like overkill, but once you’re spraying or rolling paint, you’ll be glad you took the time to cover everything up.

Remove Old Peeling Paint

The final step in your preparation is to remove any old peeling or flaking paint. 

Painting over peeling paint is a recipe for disaster. (This step can be done before you clean the surface as well. If there is a lot of peeling and flaking paint I usually start scraping that off first before I start to clean it).

Start by inspecting the entire surface of your siding. Look for areas where the paint is peeling, bubbling, or flaking off. 

These areas need to be scraped before you can move on. Use a scraper to carefully remove the loose paint. Be careful not to gouge the siding as you scrape—fiber cement is tough, but you can still damage it if you’re too aggressive.

Once you’ve scraped off the loose paint, go over the area with a wire brush if needed. 

After you’ve finished scraping and brushing, you may notice some rough spots or uneven areas. This is where sandpaper comes into play. Lightly sand the edges until they’re smooth to the touch. 

I usually use 120-grit sandpaper for this step—rough enough to smooth out the surface but not so harsh that it damages the siding. A power tool such as an orbital sander will speed this up and won’t be as strenuous.

Once everything is clean, dry, and smooth, you’re ready to move on to priming and painting.

How to Paint Fiber Cement Siding

When it comes to painting fiber cement siding, such as James Hardie siding, priming is not always necessary, but it can depend on specific circumstances.

General Guidelines

Factory-Primed Siding: If your fiber cement siding is factory-primed, you typically do not need to apply an additional primer before painting. The factory primer is designed to provide adequate adhesion for the paint.

Repainting: When repainting existing painted fiber cement siding you can usually skip the primer.

Spot prime or Prime the Whole Surface

If your siding is in good shape and has been previously painted with no significant peeling or bare spots, you might only need to spot-prime. 

Spot-priming simply means that you prime over those areas that you have scraped.

However, if your siding is bare, or if the existing paint is in poor condition, it’s best to prime the entire surface. 

After power washing, previously painted fiber cement siding may still have a powdery surface that should be sealed with a product such as Sherwin Williams Loxon Conditioner which bonds light chalking.

This might seem like an extra step, but it’s worth it to ensure that your paint adheres properly and evenly. 

Apply the primer using a roller with a ¾-inch nap to cover large areas, and use a brush to cut in around edges and details. 

If you’re using a paint sprayer, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for thinning the primer if necessary. Additionally, you may need to backroll to ensure the paint reaches all the nooks and crannies.

Make sure the primer is dry to the touch before moving on to the topcoat—this usually takes a few hours, but it can vary depending on the brand and weather conditions.

Apply the Topcoat

Once your primer is dry, it’s time to apply the topcoat. This is where your home’s new look really starts to take shape. 

Start by cutting in around the edges of your siding with a brush. This includes the areas around windows, doors, and trim where a roller or sprayer can’t easily reach. 

Once you’ve cut in, you can switch to a roller or paint sprayer for the larger surfaces. If you’re using a roller, make sure to apply the paint in a consistent pattern.

If you’re using a sprayer, hold it about 12 inches away from the surface and move it in a steady, even motion.

After the first coat is dry—usually after about four to six hours, depending on the paint and weather conditions—you’ll likely need to apply a second coat. 

The second coat helps ensure full coverage and a uniform finish and usually gives the best result. 

Follow the same process as the first coat: cut in around the edges, then use your roller or sprayer for the rest of the surface. On the second coat you usually don’t need to backroll when spraying.

Don’t rush this step—allow the first coat to dry completely before applying the second one.

Cleanup

After the final coat is applied and has dried, it’s time to clean up. While the painting might be done, the job isn’t complete until everything is tidied up and back in place. 

Start by carefully removing any painter’s tape you used to mask off areas. To avoid peeling off any fresh paint, remove the tape at a 45-degree angle while the paint is still slightly tacky. 

Use a utility knife to score along the edge of the tape before removing it if you have problems removing it. This will help prevent any of the new paint from lifting off with the tape.

Next, gather up all your drop cloths, plastic sheeting, and any other protective coverings. Shake out canvas drop cloths to remove any paint chips or debris before folding them up. 

Clean your brushes, rollers, and any other tools you used. For latex paint, warm soapy water is usually all you need to get your tools clean. 

Rinse them thoroughly, squeeze out excess water, and let them dry before storing them away. If you used a sprayer, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for cleaning it out properly—this typically involves running water or a cleaning solution through the sprayer to clear out any remaining paint.

Don’t forget to properly store any leftover paint. Seal the cans tightly and store them in a cool, dry place. 

Make sure to label them with the date and the specific color and finish, so you’ll know what you used if you need to touch up in the future. Leftover paint can come in handy for touch-ups down the road, especially after a storm or when normal wear and tear takes its toll.

Finally, give the painted surface one last inspection. Check for any spots you might have missed or any areas that could use a quick touch-up. 

A small detail like this can make a big difference in the overall look of your paint job. 

Conclusion

And there you have it! Painting fiber cement siding, like Hardie Board, might seem like a big job, but with the right preparation and a bit of patience, it’s totally doable. 

Whether you’re revamping your home’s look or just giving it some much-needed TLC, following these steps will help you get that fresh, long-lasting finish you’re after.

Plus, there’s nothing quite like stepping back at the end of the day and seeing your home looking sharp and refreshed, all thanks to your efforts.